![]() ![]() 110VAC fridge is easy in a grid environment. I'd even suggest a propane fridge for a long-term living arrangement. If it's to make anything hot, go propane. But beyond that, if you are going to be running off batteries and an inverter you do not want any heavy loads unless you absolutely must. So put whatever low power needs you have on the 12v side, and only put the heavy loads on the 110VAC side. A lot of power loss running a 2000w inverter capable of pushing 18A to run an very low-consuming device. There a good bit of power loss via heat in an inverter. I also didn't see anyone mention 'right sizing' your inverter. Design your systems so you MUST lock out the grid to feed any power into your 110 systems. ![]() ![]() Your 110VAC systems should be arranged to be powered by that grid / shore power and again be interrupted by a transfer switch before they can be powered by a generator.Īnd likewise any use of a 12v-powered inverter to power your 110VAC system. and with the transfer switch locking out the grid in order to enable the generator connection. You can obviate that somewhat by isolating your 12v systems such that your solar and batteries feed them and your grid-powered battery charger is 'one way', cannot backfeed on the supply side. The transfer switch is a code requirement in residential electrical code when you are adding the capability to energize your residence with a generator. Thus if you are using shore / grid power you should have a wiring and device setup that ensures that when those alternate power systems are in use no power can be connected to the grid. It is specifically in place to prevent the potential electrocution of electricians working in a grid-down emergency. The transfer switch is an interlock that guarantees you cannot backfeed shore / grid power when you are using an alternate power source, be it generator or solar. ![]()
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